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    September 11

    大同

    7月13日下午15:30分,列车抵达大同站,我们踏上煤乡的土地。出了站台,天空显得灰暗,这是山西黄昏雨季到来的前兆。火车站门口早有一辆辆摩托改装成的三轮车和“夏利”等待着出站的旅客。与司机讲价32元后,我们搭上“夏利”去云岗石窟。云岗石窟离大同煤矿集团不远,约摸半个小时车程。门票60元,虽然进门已经是下午四点多钟,但游客依然络绎不绝,反倒是云岗的黄昏配合这千年的石佛文化显得更加的绚丽夺目。虽然没有等到期待中的霞光,却遇到抵达山西后的第一场雨。它来时悄无声息,去时嘎然而止,爽气的没有半点拖泥带水,它不需要闪电雷鸣的伴奏,只有树枝摇曳在雨中不停地点头……

    穿起雨衣,但还要在屋檐下躲雨。雨下了半个小时,空气变得清新,天空也逐渐地亮膛起来。参观完毕,我们在云岗石窟对面的马路上选择了乘坐3路公共汽车回市中心,票价1.5元,到新开里汽车站,再换乘17路公交车在农业银行下车就可以到迎宾路上几家宾馆集中的地方了。一旦坐上大同的公共交通,就仿佛与这个城市融入在一起。17路是起始站,上车勉强还能遇到一个座位。同行之人向我摆摆手,朝一个山西小伙摆放行李的座位上招呼,我不累的摇摇头。热情的小伙麻利地把行李从原来的座位上搬起,一个劲地朝自己的座位底下塞,一边塞一边扬起头朝我招手,咧开嘴笑了。笑容表达了他的淳朴与羞涩,但在我眼里仿佛就是对待一个阔别重逢老友所表现出的真诚与善意。

    路边随处可见黑亮亮的煤堆,象小山一样一个接着一个;缓缓驶来在公路上爬行的煤车,一辆挨着一辆。这时的大同,少了份刺鼻气味,多了份清新感受,带给我舒适与宁静。

        18:30分,我们在迎宾路上选择了一家中银宾馆,这是一家附属中国银行的宾馆,虽不算高档,但设施一应俱全,130每晚。晚饭在马路对面的“莜面大王”解决。劳顿了一天,到现在才算真正的放松下来。坐在这家有着蒙古风味的连锁店里,一盘烤羊脊、一份莜面窝窝和一碗炸莜面粉已是足够填饱肚皮,加上一扎当地生啤,才四十个大洋,着实让我们乐了一把。羊肉没有膻味,菜的味道好得没了话说。

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    Sept. 12

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