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    September 11

    车厢

    7月12日12:25分,地点上海南站。K256列车足足晚到半小时,虽然是下铺,但对兴奋的我来说,并没有什么吸引力,倒情愿坐着看火车一点点的远离上海。苏州,无锡,常州,镇江,南京,蚌埠……第二天的8:25分,火车抵达北京西站。

    对铺是一个四十岁上下的北方汉子,板寸头,浓眉大眼,捋腮胡子每每翘起便露出满口黄牙,这是吸烟带给他的保护色?对于自己这个嗜好,“板寸头”倒有着自己的一番见解,“嘿,知道SARS不?这就奇了怪了,抽烟的就没得那病的,这个肺啊,尼古丁一上去就给上了一层保护膜,黑管黑啊,还就是能抵御病菌……哈哈”说着,夹起那两指头间的海绵头“嗤嗤……”又猛吸了两口。

    没啥悬念,“板寸头”自然成了列车员的重点看管户。

    隔壁车厢的下铺是与“板寸头”结伴同行的“兄弟”,听口音来自江苏南通,两人合伙在黔西开了一家钢管厂,这次准备去包头购买设备。南通人一脸生意人模样,个子不高,说话铿锵有力,一路上没少给“板寸头”传授生意经。说着说着,便与我们攀谈起来,这一路上倒也不觉着寂寞。

    正当我们谈论着蒙古射雕英雄成吉思汗时,隔壁车厢的一位六十几岁的老者插上了话,那是一口纯正地道的晋北口音,“我跟大家说啊,那个成吉思汗陵啊可不一定就是他埋骨的地方,其实他是在远征中去世的。”老人的说法有些道理,可能这代表着蒙古人的一种看法。

        搭上话之后,老者便一发不可收拾,谈古论今,滔滔不绝。什么马王堆、秦王陵,什么真迹,赝品在他看来准能分出真假。只听得那“板寸头”一楞楞的随口附和,暗地里心花怒放,今个真是长知识了。“那您老家里可有不少宝贝。”“板寸头”终于摒不住了。老伯眨巴眨巴眼睛:“这值钱的东西嘛倒没有,学费倒是交了不少。”接着,从古董到邮票,从邮票到字画,什么天上飞的,地下埋的,水里淹的,样样都倒腾了一把。最后老伯还不忘秀了一把家里人,一个兄弟在社科院做博导,一个兄弟在美国经营一家跨国企业。“板寸头”如遇高人,连忙恭恭敬敬请出自己的通讯录,记下了老伯电话号码,象怀揣着宝贝似的放回自己行李箱中,“赶明儿我俩回贵州,地下挖出了宝贝,还请您老过来帮忙瞅瞅。”那头当然满口答应,真还不知道是猴年马月的事情咧!

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    列车上也是一个小社会,旁观者的视角。
    Sept. 12

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